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  Applegate/Southern Route to Oregon  

June 11-12 
OCTA Trail Marking Survey Report
by

On a breezy, cool and overcast couple of days, over 40 people joined with tour leader Richard Silva to visit and experience the Applegate/South Road to Oregon trail from Davis Creek on Highway 395 above Alturas to the Oregon-California border, over 85 miles to the West.

Meeting in the BLM Office on June 11th, a large crowd of interested trail folks heard the plans for the next two days, reviewed topographical maps and arranged for all to have CB radios. In attendance were a large number of BLM and Forest Service employees, tourism advocate members, historical society members, Trails West members and of course OCTA members from both CA-NV and Northwest Chapters. A caravan of 15 vehicles snaked up the highway to Davis Creek for the start of our adventure.

Moving slowly around the South end of Goose Lake, Richard told us of the many emigrant routes in this area, mostly determined by the level of the Lake. He pointed out the "bluffs" that had to be climbed during high water years. We soon began to eat each others dust as we traveled up the graveled road gaining elevation to reach the large area known as the Devil’s Garden. We turned South on an "unimproved" dirt road to reach the trail as it came west up the canyon from McGinty Reservoir. We traveled about one mile, got out and walked to the very distinct trail swales, much to the satisfaction of those who were not driving 4x4 vehicles!

After our short hike, Richard related an 1872 quote: "Camped in Dry Creek valley after rolling over the worst piece of rocky country on top of ground - for miles neither wheel or wagon nor foot of horse ever touched the soil. Ground covered with loose round rocks as thick as they can be planted - A Devil’s Garden of the most approved type." Emigrant diaries all commented on the rocky trail over the Garden - we all concur.

We moved out in a cloud of dust, with Richard pointing out the 4x4, barely visible, two track roads that turn south into the Fletcher Creek route of the trail. The trail in this area, for about 10 miles, is one to three miles from "any" road! Those of us who will mark the trail next summer with carsonite and steel rail markers took note of the distance required to carry the equipment and markers!

The lunch stop was made at the Fletcher Creek crossing of the Crowder Flat road. With Richard reading diary quotes and relating historical facts from GLO maps and his other research, we moved on to where the trail exits from Fletcher Creek, then down the dusty road to where the trail turns Northwest toward today’s Pothole Springs. Several vehicles choose to stop shortly after starting as this road was not graded and required high clearance. Those that continued saw some of the best swales of the day.

After turning around, and meeting those who waited, we started our trip back to Alturas. After about 35 miles of dusty, gravel road, the paved highway 139 looked awfully good. Days travel for most exceeded 100 miles! Richard announced a long day awaits us tomorrow, so we will meet at the BLM at 7 a.m..

It rained pretty hard last night, but the gravel road was just as dusty, as we headed back toward Pothole Springs from the Clear Lake side of the Devil’s Garden. Pothole Springs is impressive, very green, lots of water. At the Springs is a Trails West rail marker, the aluminum plate is pretty well damaged by bullets. Also near by is the grave of Lloyd Dean Shook; it is not marked nor is it fenced. In 1971, Devere Helfrich with the Klamath Historical Society wrote that a basaltic headstone was found with the name, age 14, and date of 10/11/1851. He also writes that "Considerable research has been made, but no further evidence relating to a Shook family of 1851 has been uncovered." The headstone has been removed to a museum.

We returned, following the beautiful trail ruts toward Steel Swamp. Returning to the paved highway, we went north stopping to view the decent to Bloody Point. Although few swales are present, significant trail sights can be located. The Natural Bridge with it’s Lost River is well marked and nice interpretative signs are present. A number of future trail marking locations exist around the bottom of Lower Klamath Lake.

The owner, Mr. Porterfield, of the Historic "D" Ranch met us at the ranch, inviting us to tour the old ranch home, built in the mid-1800s. This location could easily be used for a Walt Disney movie, as the location is beautiful. Very deep swales come down into the ranch property.

We took a short-cut to Dorris as some needed fuel, and proceeded North to the Landrum Wayside at the Oregon-California border. Walking over to see the large rocks aligned as the trail came up the hill from Indian Tom Lake, then viewing the well done wayside interpretative signs, completed our tour.

Marking this trail will be a challenge! I heard no one say it could not be done, and in fact several are anxious for next summer’s event.

Everyone gave our guide, Richard Silva and his wife, Orsola, a heart warmed thanks for a job well done. Richard’s research and his continual travelog on the CB has made us all so much more informed about the Applegate/South Road to Oregon.

 
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